Listen to Your Dive Briefing

Your flight to your next dive destination is just about to take off. The steward begins the standard stony-faced safety briefing that’s both boring and robotic in nature. It’s also the same briefing whether you’re flying 15 hours to Norway in winter or 3 hours to California in Summer.  If you’ve flown frequently you’ve heard it all before.

Scuba diving briefings should be treated extremely differently. Water conditions, surface conditions, dive buddies and individual dive sites are all extremely varied and therefore no safety procedures are exactly the same.  Even if you have more than 50 dives and you dived in the same spot 2 years ago.

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Variables include current, depth, areas of danger, points of interest, emergency procedures, dive site topography, regulations… the list continues.  For example; our dive at Gordo Banks is an advanced deep, drift dive. It’s vital to listen to the guide’s advice about how to stay together while descending. This information is not necessary when diving from shore or with a line.

A dive briefing isn’t the time to adjust your weight belt, start up a conversation with your dive buddy or go looking for mask defog.

The following points are discussed in a dive briefing:

Dive Site Name

Keep a note for your log book.   

Site description

Is given to help divers know what to expect such as bottom topography and resident wildlife. This can help orientate a diver in case they get separated.

The Role of the Dive Guide and Communication Devices.

Everybody looks similar underwater and things can get confusing on a busy dive site. Find something distinctive in your guide or buddy – fins are a good one.

Entry and Exit Techniques

These techniques will vary boat to boat and in different weather conditions. Maybe you’ll need to remove fins first or maybe you need to remove all of the equipment in the water starting with weights first.  Listen to recommended practices from your guide , they will know the best port of call.

Dive Procedures

Buddy checks, how to stay together in the water and where to make safety stops, ascents and descents.

Emergency Procedures

If you get lost the PADI training standards are: wait for one minute and head to the surface. But perhaps your guide will want to add to this depending on dive site. For example in Cabo San Lucas there is boat traffic near the dive site and so additional safety procedures are necessary.

Signal Review Specific to the Dive

In addition to the usual signals there are hand signals for aquatic life, for deep diving techniques and techniques relevant to the dive objective.

Roster and Buddy Check 

If you visit the popular dive areas of the world, such as Thailand or Cozumel, you may well be on a large boat with 40 other divers. Make sure your name is on the roster!  The buddy check is important after your certification as now you are responsible for your equipment and your dive planning.

Environmental Orientation

The underwater world in delicate and fragile. It’s also under threat from pollution, global warming and diver interaction. Don’t be that diver. Please don’t touch anything and watch your buoyancy control.

Pre-dive Safety Check

Look at your buddy and check the following:

BCD  (does it inflate and deflate without leaks, where are the dump valves?)

Weights  (are they in a the right-hand quick release position? Where are the trim weights?)

Releases (where are the clips of your buddy’s BCD that can be released in an emergency)

Air (Is the air on? Can you locate the Alternate easily?)

Final Check! Enjoy your dive!

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The Whale Sharks of La Paz: Mexico.

 

You got up at 6am, made a pastry and coffee pit-stop at the hotel restaurant before taking your 2 hour transportation service from Cabo San Lucas to La Paz. Now you’re in your mask, snorkel and fins balancing on the edge of the panga boat with 4 other shark enthusiasts. Any minute now you’ll be face to face with the largest shark in the ocean.  The whale shark.

Reaching more than 60ft in length, in some cases, this is one really impressive animal. You don’t need to be an Olympic swimmer to enjoy the thrilling experience of swimming side- by- side, but speed can be an advantage. If you haven’t been swimming for a while try a local tour first. However, they are known to ‘vertical feed’ and many tourists last year were able to float in one spot quite comfortably and just enjoy the show. So how is it possible to find these incredible sharks only 20 minutes by boat from the seafront of the state capital?

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Why are they here?

Whale sharks are basic, instinctive animals; unlike the whales and dolphins they share the bay with whose behaviours are the product of more emotionally complex brains. Whale sharks follow their food and don’t move in social groups for social benefits. The whale sharks are here because the bay acts as a baseball glove catching the microscopic sea-life as it drifts in with wind and current. A huge population come to dine on this generous feast. Once the wind changes they begin their Exodus out to sea before returning again the following season.

When are they here?

Research has shown that the bay of La Paz is home to a huge population of mainly male, adolescent whale sharks that are here from October to May every year. The same sharks return. And how do scientists know this? Well, the sharks have their own unique spot pattern. Interestingly it’s the angles between the spots that remain the same as they grow. Unfortunately the sharks can also be identified by their unique injuries. You can see a clear example of a partially amputated dorsal fin in this video link. These injuries normally occur from boats that simply don’t see them on the surface.

Positive Regulations

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To protect the sharks from further boat propeller injuries while they enter the designated tourist area all boats must observe a slow speed and remain a specific distance away from the animal. They must approach from the back – never the front. Swimmers must keep a 3 meter / 10 foot distance from the tail and a 2m/ 7ft distance from the body. Swimmers are not allowed to approach the front of the head and can only keep up alongside. A maximum of 5 swimmers are permitted and guides have to attend a 4 day training course.  It’s more than enough to take a good look. There are limited boats in the area at one time and only one boat per shark is allowed for a limit of half an hour. It is so encouraging to see the animals are protected so extensively.

This tour is not to be missed. There aren’t many places in the world where whale sharks can be seen so readily and so respectfully. Please choose a reputable operator who will abide by the rules outlined above. And, no, they don’t accidentally swallow you with their huge mouths! They filter feed and wouldn’t be able to choke down a human sized lunch. So it’s the perfect family tour.

Quit Your Job and Become a Diving Instructor: Cabo

Ever wondered how to reject the rat race and find a career in paradise?  This is a personal account of early adventures backpacking around the world earning a diver’s salary to settling down with a family and starting a business in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Scroll down for previous installments. 

This is the last chapter of an 8 year journey. A journey many should take.

10665827_10152736282015941_5182160432502045408_nI’d packed up and left my Cabo Pulmo paradise and moved to Cabo San Lucas. A 5* luxury resort town to the untrained eye but so much more to the residents that call it home. I began my residency living with Costa Rican friends in a state of mini reunion but over the years made many more.

I’ve had some of the best encounters in my career here in Baja California Sur. Yeah yeah, I’ve only just realised I say this about all the places I’ve been to in the previous chapters, but it’s because I love what I do.DSC04452

Not only is Cabo San Lucas bay filled with thousands of schooling mobula rays throughout the year, the deep canyon invites many a surprise pelagic on it’s way from the Pacific Ocean to the Sea of Cortez. There are also reef shark, turtles on occasion, hundreds of species of macro and a sea lion colony at Land’s end point that sits above a ship wreck and is only 5 minutes from the marina. It’s truly incredible, especially in autumn and winter. On top of this, a little way north you can be swimming with whalesharks in La Paz bay or go deep diving with schooling hammerheads at Gordo Banks.

With a constant flow of tourists from North America, Mexico and Europe it’s a natural place to come and settle down.

And settle down I did. I now have a family; my son just turned 2 years old. I started a dive business and in about 3 weeks I should be getting the keys to my new dive shop. Whaaaat.

Cabo San Lucas presented various opportunities. After 8 years of professional dive experience and living with no fixed agenda I was beginning to feel ‘too old for this’. I worked hard getting 3 years of Cabo experience as a dive shop manager and finally made the jump into being my own boss. I love it.

The answer to the question: ‘Can you escape the rat race?’ has been answered: no.

In my experience, no you can’t. I rebelled and traveled outside it for a while, yes, but a deeper innate instinct of the need to compete, procreate and succeed has won me over. On a deeply subjective level the one thing I can personally take from my quest to search for something else is that I am, in deed, still running a rat race. But a rat race entirely suited to who I am and not dictated by what my limited surroundings could offer.

I have searched for, and found, a rat race that I enjoy competing in.

And that readers, I think, is the moral of the story.

The End.

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Dedicated to Frankie and David. For their endless support and courage to let me wonder off into the big wide-world.
Thank you to the audience for letting me indulge. I’m breaking the rules of blogging. I’m supposed to write in the second person, I’m supposed to drop endless links to my business and I’m not supposed to tell personal stories. But, as well as documenting my Rat Race Reject experiment for those that are thinking of embarking on world travel, this series has been a cathartic journal to my mum and dad. An explanation of how and why, just because I owe them everything.

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Quit Your Job and Become a Diving Instructor: Mexico

Ever wondered how to reject the rat race and find a career in paradise?  This is a personal account of early adventures backpacking around the world earning a diver’s salary to settling down with a family and starting a business in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Follow the blog for the next installment. LAST BLOG NEXT WEEK!

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Bull Shark at El Vencedor Wreck

I stayed in the UK for a matter of weeks. Apparently freaking out and going home is something all ‘long-termers’ go through at some stage. The pull of the rat race is strong.

But not strong enough! I went back to Rich Coast Diving for a year, the PADI career development centre in Costa Rica, to manage the dive shop and train up a level to IDC Staff Instructor; an instructor of instructors, if you will. I’m Maverick and I’m going to Top Gun. Just with a lot less testosterone.

Baja_mapThe travel thirst was not completely quenched. I was ready to move on after another fun-filled year of new friends, new experiences and new qualifications. I applied for a job in Cabo Pulmo Marine Park in Mexico’s Sea of Cortez. I’d heard good things about this place. By crazy chance the manager of the shop to whom I had applied was also applying for my job in Costa Rica. Small, small world. I got the job but he stayed in Mexico, due to change of circumstance, and we become good friends.

I arrived at the most awe-inspiring marine park I have ever had the fortune to visit, let alone work in. Let me explain. I’ve been diving around the world. I’ve never been ‘policed’ underwater before because the people care so intensely about their reef. Their ground-breaking fishing ban and reef restoration program is so important that there is a 2 day course to qualify as a Cabo Pulmo guide. The reef is tantamount and the Guardaparque divers get in the water with you from time-to-time to check that no divers touch the reef.  Other rules stipulate that dive groups are limited to 6 divers, only 2 small licensed boats can arrive at one site within a 20 minute window and dive sites need to be booked in advance. What an outstanding place.

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As well as the rules that have lead to its label as a ‘Hope Spot’ (Dr Sylvia Earle 2006), Cabo Pulmo is the oldest coral reef in the northern hemisphere. Of the 14 species that exist world-wide, 12 live here. A fishing ban since the mid 90’s means there is an abundance of fish that have been allowed to grow to normal size: a size not normally witnessed in over-fished waters and over-crowded dive sites. Bull sharks 6 – 12 ft long usually reside on a shipwreck cleaning station and Humpbacks breach at the side of the boats during season. Simply amazing.

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The Infamos Big Eye Jacks

This has been, hands down, my favourite place to live and work. I lived for free in a small house with roof terrace where I could watch the sunset over hills that were covered in cactus and desert flora. I had time before work to take a surfboard to the flat ocean and paddle out to watch the sun rise in a sea full of life and empty of tourists. All by myself.

cardinalSome mornings I would do yoga on my roof terrace and only the sounds of the birds chirping to the upcoming sunrise would be heard. Well, sometimes also to be heard was the sound of one consistently stupid cardinal repeatedly flying head first into my window because, I assume, he wanted something in my house and couldn’t see the glass. Idiot. Where was I? Oh yes. Wild horses roamed my garden, humming birds pollunated the trees and quail families pecked at the ground outside my house. Scorpions DID fall out of my rooftop into my bed and rattle snakes DID wait outside my back gate. But you have to take the rough with the smooth. After ‘working’ with some of the most amazing underwater wildlife encounters during the day the evenings were spent in nature: either surfing, hiking or having bonfires.

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Cabo Pulmo Beach

No stress, no need to spend money, no need to look in the mirror. I slept outside in my garden for the summer and watched the solar system move around in cycles.

I never knew life like this and it was good.

 

 

I will always miss living in Pulmo. But I’m in my mid-thirties. I felt the need to move from the isolated park to Cabo San Lucas, a hub of opportunity, noise and activity two hours further south. I had never heard of Cabo San Lucas before I got to Pulmo and, little did I know at the time, my future was waiting for me there.

 

The Hardest Discover Scuba Diver Course Ever Taught

BCRC3Sixteen whole days. Sixteen days in darkness. More than two weeks with little food and water trapped in a flooded cave and only the sounds of 12 other people in the same nightmare can be heard. At the time of writing the rescue effort is underway but oxygen levels are dropping and the heroes that gathered on the surface have no choice but to pick up their pace.

As the world watches the unimaginable rescue attempt of the ill-fated Thai junior football team with bated breath, observers may be wondering; why can’t they simply just swim out on a secondary air source?

buzos-principiantes-beginnerWhat’s happening in Thailand is a rescue dive operation on a whole new level.  I’m no cave diver, nor technically trained, but I am vastly experienced in taking non -traumatised, nourished beginners on their first ever dive. I understand, as a dive tour operator dealing mainly in entry level courses, the psychology involved taking these divers under the surface in relatively good conditions. It can be tough and panic is common.

Why is the rescue taking it’s time?

Cave Diving is an extreme sport that relies on calm. It differs from recreational diving for many reasons. The diver does not have access to the surface and must prepare for any emergency to be handled underwater.  The diver will normally make a stop for a determined length of time to breathe out the excess nitrogen in the circulatory system that they absorbed through the denser tank air as pressure increased: a decompression stop. This additional nitrogen also means they must make long stops on the surface and rest between each dive. In addition to all the standard practices you need to be headstrong, focused and controlled.

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Adapted Equipment

300_801660252_restrictionjeh_99Rescuers need to ‘stage’ or a place spare tanks along the way so that they have enough air. Preserving air is a big issue and staying calm is imperative: increased heart rate means faster breathing. Divers must don all tanks and equipment so that it can be streamlined or pushed ‘easily’ through small passages in front of them as they go.

The rescuers in Thailand are currently adapting all of their equipment so that the lead diver has a longer hose to reach the boy that will swim behind. The picture below does not, in any way, portray how difficult this will really be. Communications will be limited due to language barriers but full face masks will be used. Reassurance will save lives.

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These caves will push the upper limits of the cave divers that are rescuing them. They now need to penetrate these caves with scared, mal nourished children that cannot swim. This is the hardest beginner dive experience ever taught.

 

 

How to Quit Your Job and Become a Diving Instructor: #6 Malaysia

Ever wondered how to reject the rat race and find a career in paradise?  This is a personal account of early adventures backpacking around the world and earning a diver’s salary to settling down with a family and starting a business in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Follow the blog for the next installment.

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roxanne   Dedicated to Roxanne Hillier

March 2013

Nighttime shadows cluster around the treetops from the big rock where I sit under shooting stars. Bat shaped Flying Red Squirrels swoop from tree to tree and ghosts lurk in the dark corners of our jungle habitat, or so I’m told. The supernatural atmosphere is punctured quickly by the staff house TV set coming on at a louder-than-necessary volume with nobody in particular wanting to watch. Shrieks of laughter from the laundry hut bring me back from my imagination that had me somewhere magical between Neverland and the Ewok village. I have arrived on Tioman Island on East Coast Malaysia; according to Chinese legend this is the final resting place of a beautiful dragon princess.

Tioman Island’s central mountain jungle tops remain home only to dramatic topography, big jungle trees and animals such as; ‘the steal-your-food-and-poo-in-your-accommodation’ Macaque Monkey, the ‘lets-surprise-the-laundry-staff’ King Cobra’s, the ‘almost-extinct-so-let’s-allow-the-local-policeman-to-frequently-shoot-it’ Mouse Deer, Civets, Binturong, Slow Loris, Bush Tail Porcupine and the ‘slightly-bigger-than-average’ Giant Squirrel. It’s big, but it’s not that big.

The Island is a 40k stretch of fishing villages and resorts mostly dotted up and down the coastline; there is a resort for any budget or taste without crowding.

minangMinang Cove, my new home for the next 8 months, is a long established resort and is built on one of the most scenic beaches in the south. The jetty brings guests initially to the dive centre building which supports 3 deluxe bedrooms above and my very own non-deluxe bedroom at the back. A small bridge over the mountain stream takes you to focal bar/restaurant area. Villas and cabins climb the rocky jungle hill behind until the staff lodgings make up the perimeter at the back. This is where I sometimes borrow a rock to sit on and absorb the wilderness. I had arrived to run the dive centre; a small ‘manager’ notch in my belt, thank you very much rat race.

 

island2I settled into my much quieter home fairly quickly although the first week I felt like an exhibition piece as the Malays tended to watch everything I did quite closely. Personal boundaries are different here; Malays have no problem telling you about any weight you’ve gained or lost and have no reservation asking intrusive questions about how much money you earn. ‘Why do you have such a big zit on your face today?’ ‘I’m not too sure my inquisitive friend, but thanks for caring’. Because of this no-boundaries attitude I often had somebody sitting opposite me just staring at me eating my food in my first few weeks. The only other western face for the first few months was the owner and luckily we gelled straight away.

The diving soon proved to be the most enjoyable diving job I’ve experienced. South Tioman is different from all the places I’ve dived so far; different from Boracay because there are bigger animals in the water, different from Costa Rica because there are beautiful corals and it is different from Thailand because my divers and I had the dive sites all to ourselves.

whalesharkSo far underwater has been awesome. I now have a new favourite dive. I was leading 2 students on only their third open water dive at Jahat Island, just 10 minutes away from the resort. The water was clear, blue and teaming with fish. Making my usual way 20 meters down to a coral rock to find the schools of barracuda, jacks or bat fish that often swarm here, I was suddenly aware of a dark shadow above me. My students were happily Finding Nemo as the huge looming outline of an 8 meter shark came in to focus; escorted by other smaller fish catching a ride in the slip stream. A whale shark.

A whale shark, readers! Gently rapping my tank with a steal clip I got the attention of my students and hoped my OK signal conveyed the ‘don’t worry this is just a MASSIVE shark’ effectively. We swam up to her and she swam slowly enough for us to enjoy the moment before she left. I can’t convey in words the feeling of being alone in the water and having such an animal acknowledge your presence and then allow you in its space. Unbelievably she came back to swim with us 10 minutes later and turned and dived down straight towards me, brushing past me with half a meter to spare. She looked me straight in the eye as she went passed. I later learned that the owner of Minang Cove has only heard of Whale Sharks in the area once in the last 17 years.

Not all my shark encounters have been so friendly, although this next one was equally exhilarating. One calm afternoon I went with two others to lay down a new mooring on a shallow reef in the middle of the ocean. Once in the designated area, the boat driver, the other nominated snorkeler and I headed off in 3 different directions and I was soon alone swimming in 25 meter deep dark blue water, only shadows of the reef below.

reefsharksprAs I splashed around in my fins I looked down to see the familiar sight of a reef shark, maybe only 1 and half meters in length, similar to those I have dived with many times. I thought nothing else of it as I started swimming again. Another minute passed and I saw the shark again, only this time it was swimming a little shallower. I wasn’t worried at this point because this is a black tip reef shark; no recorded attacks on humans have ever been made except understandably when spear fishermen attach their bleeding catch to the nets in their belts.

However a serious doubt entered my mind when I next looked down and the shark was clearly circling me and getting nearer and nearer. Uh oh. I looked for my friend: too far away to be any help. I looked for the boat: moving in the opposite direction. Putting my face back in the water, the shark was completely level with me now. Suddenly it came for me. In that split second I remembered that as I was the same size as the shark it was unlikely to do more than threaten if it thought it might lose a fight. So I dived towards it, turned and attempted to kick it in the face. That was enough to scare it off for the next few minutes. I shouted for the boat, which arrived slowly and just in time before the shark started circling again…

Whilst I thought this experience made me a suitable candidate for National Geographic’s ‘I Shouldn’t Be Alive’, my friends on the trip still find it incredibly entertaining that I was so concerned about a fluffy wuffy black tip reef shark.

Other exciting animal encounters include; getting into a territory war with a blood thirsty vampire zombie macaque monkey (or so it seemed) on the footpath to the local village, finding a python in the bar roof and chasing a placid king cobra out of the staff houses.
malayfamilyThe months spent here have proven it is possible to continue to gain valuable employ-ability whilst living out of a backpack. I can now add 8 months of management experience to my CV. In addition, I’ve felt more at home with the local people here than anywhere else so far and I’m surprised that, as an annoying and outspoken radical feminist with strong atheist beliefs, my only Muslim home has given me that.
malaysiaBut, I’m tired. I have been doing a physically demanding job for almost 3 years with no guaranteed days off and without insurance plans, benefits or bonuses. I have had 4 ear infections in the past 8 months; even now as I write this a neck lymph node is screaming at me to just sit down and have a cup of tea. The recurring negative to this lifestyle is that I miss being with likeminded people and having a stable crowd of friends that remain in my living space for more than 6 months. You can be surrounded by people but still feel lonely.
As time winds down I find myself spending more time watching the sunsets, looking out onto the ocean horizon and checking out the starry night sky. Yesterday I realized how much I started taking all the back-to-nature reasons I came here for in the first place for granted, now that I’m heading back to the UK. I’m going back to base for a Christmas holiday and to take stock: to catch up with friends/family and potato based meals. Now armed with 3 years worth of necessary skills and experience gained in a world I wanted to be I need to find out where these skills belong.

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Quit Your Job and Become a Diving Instructor: #5 Philippines

Ever wondered how to reject the rat race and find a career in paradise?  This is a personal account of early adventures backpacking around the world earning a diver’s salary to settling down with a family and starting a business in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Follow the blog for the next installment.

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2011

Another low season approached and I didn’t want to spend it in Thailand.The gateway to Asia had opened. With replenished funds, following a successful season on the west coast of southern Thailand, I ventured to pastures brand new: The Philippines.

phili4The Philippines conjures images in my mind of beaches and sunsets similar to the default wallpaper background on Windows 7; turquoise water, swaying palm trees and cloudless skies.

phili3Boracay Island is just like this and is called the ‘Jewel’ of the archipelago. I landed myself a job here thanks to a friend’s recommendation. After a long journey in the air I boarded the last banka ferry from the main island across the stunningly clear blue water and finally onto Boracay pier. Sparse white sand on concrete beneath my feet hinted at paradise just around the corner.

White Beach is a mile long with scatterings of ‘Paraw’ sailing boats and dive boats waiting for spontaneous business. A long row of shops, restaurants and bars are unsuccessfully subtle among the palm trees – but it is beautiful. After being so isolated in X bay this was a sensory over load; a crowded paradise but with space to feel alone.  Except when you suddenly find yourself trapped in a sizable Korean tour group in the confectionary isle of Budget Mart. Yes, really.

phili2The job was in a small dive shop on the front of the beach but I later migrated to the 5* Shangri La hotel because, apart for obvious 5* reasons, I preferred the pace of work. The first job involved starting later in the morning but having to work into the late evening, very much working on pure commission basis and so there was always a competitive pressure amongst the instructors to find customers. The second job in the hotel was more laid back and I finished at 5pm: the only complaint being the early starts. But whatever, it is paradise after all.

So I am into my 3rd paradise now and it’s deflating how it’s all seeming so normal. No more gushing over palm trees and starry nights, no more gazing in awe at fireflies and neon butterflies. I miss England every time I’m queuing for hours at the bank just to cash my pay cheque, I miss making whatever sandwich I like without having to source the ingredients from a handful of suppliers at opposite ends of the island, I miss not sweating all the time and I miss Christmas.

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Is the grass greener over here? Or will every eventual life style become monotonous? Am I just having a slow week? It is the middle of low season and with Christmas around the corner this would be a natural time to miss England after all. And I know these feelings are interrupted on a weekly basis when I go for a particularly pretty dive and then I’m back to realizing this is a nice way to spend life.

PHILIFor the diving enthusiasts: underwater is all macro or small aquatic life such as; sea horses, pipe fish, snakes, nudibranch, frog fish, eels and octopi among the usual fish families of the tropics.  I have seen only two sharks, two eagle rays, a few napoleon wrasse and a handful of turtles since I came here. Costa Rica is still my favourite because of the big fish. Boracay has, however, consistently decent visibility and is home to the most beautiful soft coral reef I have ever seen at the time of writing. The Boracay ocean often throws in some surprises on a lucky day so this and the decent wreck dive kept my interest.

Philippine culture has introduced me to some new experiences. The food cannot match the culinary idiosyncrasies of Thailand but has its own charming feel of individualism. Take balut for example. This is a hard boiled duck egg in its later stages of development. You can feast upon a delightful 25 day fetus marinated in duck fetus jus served with a refreshing glass of… well absolutely anything that will take the taste away basically. You could eat your balut with a side order of chicken feet (not at all that bad if you can look past anything it might have been walking in). Dessert might be Halo Halo: a Philippine version of trifle composed of ice, sweet condensed milk, ice cream, sweet corn, corn flakes and jelly all in one dish.  Why? I asked myself as I ate 3 mouthfuls and then left it to melt away in the fancy glass bowl it was served in.

I’ve given the food a bit of a hard time there. I ate the local food all the time and loved the chicken curry, squid adobo and batchoy. San Miguel is 40p a bottle making happy hour very happy in deed.

phili9Spending a year on an Island not longer than 7km and no wider than 1km meant a break was needed after 6 months to avoid island fever. Yes, you actually get the desire to leave paradise to check the rest of the world still exists. So after low season I quit my job and went traveling around the Visayan region of the Philippines. I’d also arranged to do some voluntary work near Manila after a 3 week holiday.

 

This is the good thing about working as a diving instructor. You work in beautiful tropical places during the designated season and when you decide you want to take a break it becomes possible to travel the surrounding areas. It’s a good way to see the world. So I’m still happy bobbing around the globe, living out of a bag, surviving on pesos and able to push the tiny voice saying ’30 year old hobo’ to the back of my mind. Fighting societal pressures to come home and conform is getting harder now, but I’m still fighting.

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How to Quit Your Job and Become a Scuba Diving Instructor: #4 Thailand

Ever wondered how to reject the rat race and find a career in paradise?  This is a personal account of early adventures backpacking around the world earning a diver’s salary to settling down with a family and starting a business in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Follow the blog for the next installment.

Winter 2010/ Spring 2011

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Bloody hell. Back to this place. Back to Bangkok and the Koh San Road. I first came to Thailand in 2003 and I loved it. It was my first real far away adventure and I was very fond of the time I spent here. The beaches were deserted and McDonalds was limited to Pattaya and Phuket.

In the 8 years to follow the boom in budget air travel made flying a more accessible option to everyone, Europeans started looking further afield than The Med or The Canaries. People had always come to Thailand but, after a Hollywood blockbuster movie or 2, Bangkok has become a bustling gateway to the southern beaches were you could be mistaken for thinking that Blackpool had taken Birmingham on a romantic holiday to Stockholm and an offspring of fake Billabong t-shirts are the result. Thailand was a base to get some real money: if I wanted to go exploring remote Asian diving paradises I needed a scuba diving factory and that factory was to be Koh Phi Phi.

thaiI reached the infamous Backpackers paradise of Koh San Road and rested up for the night for I would be doing a 17 hour bus journey the next day. I needed a proper rest. I am not the backpacker I used to be. 24 hours later I was in a long tail boat rounding the corner of some impressive lime stone cliffs to our next destination where I would have a few days rest before traveling on to Koh Phi Phi: X bay.

thai3So far in Thailand I had seen more development of the tourism industry than I care to count. The longtail boat drivers are now organized businesses complete with t-shirt uniforms. Ferry staff, not only have uniforms, but they hand out menus and have a knack for customer service; there is actually designated space for luggage on the boat! It no longer has the same charming ineptitude as it had before and I instantly regretted spoiling the memory of 2003 by coming back. Therefore, if anyone actually reads this account of my life and somehow I am responsible for encouraging mass tourism in X bay I will not forgive myself. So it goes unnamed.

tha5As we came in to dock in the small channel that ran down to the side of the beach there were rock climbers hanging all over the imposing cliffs. The beach was rugged and pristine. Hammocked bars and coffee shops littered the beach village (a Thailand standard for any 2003 backpacker which now seems to have disappeared) and the jungle reached from the beach to the mountains behind. You could only reach this place by boat unless you were handy with a machete and enjoyed exploring jungles while mosquito’s feed off your ankles.

Amongst the dominance of rock climbing centres I found a small dive shop and asked for work. They said yes but never got round to saying when. I pursued it for a few days but it didn’t persuade me to stick around, especially as the manager had just quit because he fell out with the owner. That didn’t look good. Besides I was leaving to find work in Koh Phi Phi where money grows on palm trees and the sand is paved with gold. And the clientele was probably 18, drunken and useless. But you can’t have everything.

fullmEveryone knows that Phi Phi suffered hugely in the 2004 Tsunami. Since this time they have rebuilt the infrastructure to an uncharacteristically superficial level and now the only bamboo huts I found were equipped with all mod cons and rent stood at about $30 a night. Actually that’s a lie, I found one for $12 at the back of a beach bar that played Europop until 4am every night, had one tiny fan and not enough room for the door to open fully or enough height to stand up in completely. And I’m 5 foot 2. The Island itself now had various ‘pubs’ boasting hourly viewings of ‘The Inbetweeners’ and ‘Family Guy’ to watch with your Full English Breakfasts or Sunday roast dinners.

So the Island was a let down, but I know from Costa Rican experience that sometimes this happens before things get 100% better. Maybe if I find work in one of the 25 dive shops on the Island things will improve. So I constructed my first dive instructor CV; something I had delayed because I don’t have much instructional experience. I decided to hand them out personally and make a good impression with good conversation and banter instead of certification numbers and experience. My enthusiasm systematically shrank with every inquiry. I’d arrived quite late in the season, Thailand was experiencing low tourism levels and nobody had much work to give me.

poolwpI finally stumbled on work selling try-dives in a hotel pool in between guiding dives. My relief at finding work was quickly replaced with frustration after my first day; I was a new instructor and I wanted to be working in the ocean.

A few days were spent in a haze of worry and anxiety as my money reserves were being spent on expensive food and accommodation on an Island I was beginning to loathe without the promise of a decent job to progress to. This was my worry when I left the UK to embark on this life: would there be work? Would it be easy to find? Would I run out of money before I even began?

Then, like a bolt of tardy lightening that completely missed the storm I realised how utterly stupid I was being in forgetting about the one job I could have in one of the most beautiful locations in Thailand. I text’ the X beach dive shop immediately to see if they still needed me to be their instructor. Hell yes, as it turns out. They were desperate for instructors and were happy to hear from me because they had lost my number and couldn’t get in touch. I left Phi Phi immediately.

tha7Work began the day after I arrived and I was really happy to learn that I would still be diving at Koh Phi Phi as well as Krabi’s local Islands. Contrary to the rest of the Island, Island Phi Phi under water is fabulous.

I spent 4 months in X beach. I lived in a bamboo hut with cold water and electricity from 6pm until 6am, which I know doesn’t sound all that enticing, but you’re out all day anyway and when you live half way up a big hill a cold shower was all you would want once you reached the top. I virtually lived in the jungle and would watch monkeys play in trees until the novelty wore off and it was just like watching cats and dogs. I would sometimes spot big monitor lizards strolling around, the bathroom had an open view of the lush jungle mountain and all this (not the bathroom) was shared with a mixed nation of rock climbing neighbours (including someone from my home town).

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This was all for $5 a night. I would eat for about $5 a day and with the odd beer and coconut/banana shake maybe that would stretch as far as $7. And I was earning anything between $1000 and $1500 a month. Rat Race! Pah!

Quit Your Job and Become a Diving Instructor: #3 Costa Rica

Ever wondered how to reject the rat race and find a career in paradise?  This is a personal account of early adventures backpacking around the world earning a diver’s salary to settling down with a family and starting a business in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Follow the blog for the next installment.

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Summer 2010

I step off the bus and am presented with brown sand, rolling waves, a worn-out soccer field and 2 crackheads happily slumped up against a broken gate. Its only 11am. Erm…  what about the white sandy beach and clear blue water? Suddenly my spontaneous decision to come here seems poorly judged and maybe, just maybe, I should have at least Googled some images on the net – but it’s 2010 and Instagram isn’t around yet. Oh well, off I trudge to find the dive shop. It’s hot and I struggle with back pack, dive bag and hang luggage. I look comical.

On arrival I am very glamorously dripping with sweat and fairly exhausted. A smiley Dutch girl greets me and immediately laughs at the size of my dive bag. She has to juggle my needs with her customer’s, so I don’t get much attention about what to do next. I wait. I ask about the room in the diver house that I have been invited to but am now told that the rooms are full so I should stay in a cheap hotel until something else becomes available.

I am helped to my tropical, un-budgeted, mosquito den by a Divemaster who thankfully did all the talking. Unfortunately, although unsurprisingly, 3 months of Tuesday evening Spanish classes didn’t do much good. I buy some box wine for $5 (so not all bad) and have a drink as I read The Lonely Plant Guide to Costa Rica for the 3rd time and then fall asleep. It’s been a long day. My first official day as a Divemaster intern was to be spent in physiology class with my Course Director: my first dive was 7 days later.

This underwhelming start to my adventures didn’t last long. My Costa Rican Divemaster Internship was THE best fun I had to date (I am writing this in the Philippines having also been to Thailand) and this just goes to show that if something doesn’t meet expectations then keep going and maybe it will work out in the end.

I made scores of new friends that worked among the handful of local dive shops over 3 different beaches. My Course Director was outstanding. There was a great team spirit in the shop because when people are doing what they love then work is no longer ‘work’. I actually learned some Spanish and discovered a love for avocado, refried beans and refrigerated fresh coconuts.

My friends were from the US, Europe, Canada, Iran, Colombia and of course, Costa Rica. The shared house I finally ended up in after a couple of weeks was the nicest travel accommodation I’ve ever lived in with hilarious house mates to boot. It only cost me $80 a month. The ever-changing groups of dive pros all hung out; cooking together, swapping stories, having beach fires and generally having a blast. Traveling makes the world very small. Ahh, nice innit?

bullsharThe diving could be utterly spectacular when visibility reached 20-25 meters. Not a wow factor by measures of other tropical climes but the big animal life in west coast Costa Rica is abundant and rivals any pristine reef in the Asian coral triangle in terms of jaw dropping nature.

Some examples include schools of eagle rays, cities of sting rays (some 3 meters in diameter), white tip reef sharks, big chunky bull sharks, giant manta rays, barracuda, turtles, devil rays, golden cow-nose rays and in the late summer months humpback whales jumped and played next to our boat amid huge pods of dolphins. I snorkeled with one.I felt as though I might start commentating on all this nature in my best David Attenborough voice. Not that I have many David Attenborough voices to choose from.  th

One night I went snorkeling with a couple of friends to look at the bioluminescnce when an Eagle Ray swam towards us in the light of our torches. The lights of the illuminous plankton trailed the wings of the ray like the trails of fireworks. If I went home tomorrow with only these experiences imprinted in my mind all will not have been wasted.

fireflies-in-japan2The town above water was green and tropical. Fireflies lit up the small jungle paths behind our houses. Throaty frogs croaked their songs in gutters below the streets, howler monkeys noisily whooped and growled in the branches above the sports bar during post dive drinks, crocodiles lived under a bridge by a ravine and a man made money feeding them chickens as bemused tourists watched on. Sometimes we went and caught fish at the beach for our supper. We even had a resident tarantula. Sometimes the urban world we live in is suffocating and to live in beautiful Costa Rica is good medicine for the soul.

padiproI loved it so much I stayed and progressed to dive instructor. I didn’t want to leave. Costa Rica was always going to be seen through rose tinted spectacles: the first few months away from home, I was still quenching the thirst of adventure and I was living the dream of getting paid to dive with sharks, dolphins, whales and new unknown creatures.

But all was to change with the arrival of low season. New adventures were forced upon me thanks to some changes in immigration controls, friends leaving and the pull of the unknown. I could have stayed in June 2010 Coco Beach forever: only University was more fun.  Where next? Well my travel buddy wanted to explore the East and as diving instructors we can go wherever we want. So off to Asia for the next chapter.

In South East Asia scuba diving work is plentiful, the reefs are abundant and living is cheap. Experienced divers confirmed the price of the plane ticket could be earned back in a matter of weeks and then wages would be  between $1k -$2k a month. I was to travel to the gateway of South East Asia: Bangkok.

A merry leaving party was held on the crappy beach where I had arrived naive and disheartened only a few months earlier. When I boarded the very same bus to return to San Jose airport I couldn’t believe how much I had achieved and experienced. This is why I left the UK. Now I appreciated how moving back home was really a giant leap forward in disguise. What an incredible journey so far.

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Quit Your Job and Become a Diving Instructor. #2 Leaving

Ever wondered how to reject the rat race and find a career in paradise?  This is a personal account of early adventures backpacking around the world earning a diver’s salary to settling down with a family and starting a business in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Follow the blog for the next installment.

Winter 2008

So, following a redundancy in London and with the UK job market looking as depressingly uninspiring as any given episode of Britain’s got Talent, I decided this was the time to really change my life and follow my dreams and travel on a one way ticket with no fixed agenda.  The day finally came when I booked my ticket to Costa Rica: to the exotic unknown.

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There are many difficult things about leaving. From dwelling on the survival potential of an ill-fated long distance relationship, to the silent angst of my parents in the National Rail waiting room as I put them through this solo traveling ordeal yet again. And then there’s the immobilizing luggage that will inevitably be the wrong weight thus leading to an airport reshuffle and public display of my selected travel pants. Everything I will own for the foreseeable future will be carried around with me, right here in these bags.

I wave goodbye to my loving family and the graying skies on the middle England platform and head to my second home, London, where I will board a plane and fly to a new one. It’s emotional.

meI have always loved diving. I’m never happier than when I’m descending into the deep, encased in varying thicknesses of neoprene with plastic paddles attached to my feet and a mask that makes the remaining space on my face look like I have a ducks mouth. It’s the weightlessness, the beauty, the unknown and the silence that hypnotizes many a person into this wonderful sport. Go on, try it, you’ll never look back. I decided to become a dive professional when I was 22, and it took me 7 years to get round to it.  So I signed up to do a Dive Master Internship with Rich Coast Diving (RCD) on the Pacific side of Costa Rica (CR). I had minor savings and wanted them to stretch as far as possible this time so being an intern and exchanging work for education is a great way to do it.

cr8Many people ask how I knew where to go. I didn’t. I liked the sound of Central America and knew that I wanted to go to this region of the world ever since little Sophie spoke of Panama in the children’s film ‘The BFG’ in my childhood. It sounded so exotic and far away to my 6 year old ears and something must have stuck. I Googled dive centres and RCD in Costa Rica looked the best. It was that simple.

After a long, pointless accumulation of excessive carbon footprints from London to San Jose via Chicago and Dallas I arrived in CR’s capital in the early evening. A rush of warm, humid air embalmed my tired body as I stepped off the plane and I could make out the silhouettes of the lush green mountains surrounding the small city against the starry sky as nighttime fell upon the small thin wiggly bit that connects North and South America. I felt contented excitement; this was the beginning of another adventure and this was the moment I had been dreaming of for years. I found the driver who would take me to my pre-booked hostel and I attempted to get into the wrong side of the car. I would make the journey north west to the Guanacaste region first thing in the morning.

I got to the bus station at 7:45am the next morning. I had a big sign stuck to my face saying ‘Tourist’ and various taxi drivers tried to talk to me, presumably saying something along the lines of me taking a cab 6 hours north. I don’t think so Mr Taxi driver. The bus journey was long but I stared out of the window the entire time, every landscape more interesting than the last as we got further away from the city. Waterfalls and rivers, jungle trees and the infrastructure of the developing world are quaint and beautiful. I arrived in Playas del Coco in the afternoon.

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